When I first arrived to the Yavapai Geology Museum I looked through the glass, looked down at the floor and then looked out again. I could not believe my eyes. Staring out into the vastness that is the Grand Canyon it almost looks fake. I was talking to my cousin the day before and he said the best and worst part about the Grand Canyon is that it looks exactly like the pictures. I had seen many pictures and let me tell you there is no photo shop. It really is that unbelievable.
The tour took about 60 minutes. The big take away from the tour on how the Grand Canyon was formed can be remembered using the simple letters.. DUDE; Deposition, uplift, down cutting and erosion (DUDE). After the tour I chatted with the Ranger who had led the tour about a good hike to go on while I was there. I would be kicking myself if I did not go at least part way into the Grand Canyon. I wanted the full experience or at least as much as possible. I could read about the history, but physically walking on the canyon floor is not something you can just read about. The Ranger told me that it was about ten miles (one way) from the top of the southern rim to the Colorado river (the bottom). I thought twenty miles was a little much for a day hike and asked about something a little shorter. He suggested I hike down the Bright Angel Trail to what they call Plateau Point, visible from the rim. There I would be able to get a better look out at the Colorado river which you could barely see from up above on the rim. The Bright Angel Trail was 6 miles (one way) which I knew would be pushing it as far as a day hike goes, at least for me, but it was doable. I did not think too hard about it I was wearing my boots, had a muffin and water bottle from the awful motel breakfast, as far as I was concerned I was good to go. I started walking towards the trail head which I did not realize at the time was another mile and a half down the road...round trip this was going to be a fifteen mile adventure. Had I been with anyone else I may have been talked out of it:)
As I reached the trail head I was so excited I was almost running or sliding really. The first mile or so of the trail was covered in snow! I have to hand it to the Rangers out there for not closing the trail. It was to say the least dangerous. I being a somewhat athletic, fairly coordinated individual was admittedly nervous. Steep switchbacks in the snow with a cliff on one side? Regardless, I saw others on the trail, if they could do it, I could do it. Walking down the trail it reminded me of that scene in Hook where the "man" peter pan (Robin Williams) slides down a hill through four climate zones and experiences what looks like three seasons in NeverNever Land (childhood memories). It was roughly 30 degrees at the top. I was dressed appropriately; I had gloves, a jacket and a beanie on. I wasn't cold at all and I knew that it was going to warm up, I could see that there was no snow where I was going. The snow covered switch backs lasted about a mile and a half then it turned to thick mud! Not light sliding mud, but thick lucky to keep you boots on you feet kind of mud. Then the trail turned into what I assume the entire trail looks like during the summer months, a nice even dirt trail. To be honest it was quite an experience and I wouldn't of had it any other way.
I was hiking fast on the way down it took me roughly two hours to reach Plateau Point from the trail head (3 mph). I spent some time at the bottom taking in what I had just accomplished, admiring the beauty of the Colorado river, and trying not to think about the long journey back up. At the bottom it was 70 degrees? It was at this point that I learned there are two ways to get warm in Northern Arizona; Change your latitude or change your elevation. Something I knew, but rarely had the chance to experience.
*The last time I experienced such a drastic change in temperature was when I climbed Ol Donio Lengai in Africa with my father (2004). I honestly thought I was going to freeze to death hiking up the mountain that night, but when we got to the bottom later that day it was 90 degrees. Hard to believe.
After catching my breath and conversing with a ranger that was down there studying Condor activity, I was on my way back up. I knew that it was going to be a rough go back up the Canyon, but I had no idea how rough. I decided to save my muffin until I reached the steep part of the switch backs, when I really needed it. It took all I had in the tank to make it back up the Canyon. By the time I got back to the rim I do not think I had, but maybe ten more steps in me. I was trying to make it back up by sunset because I heard that was quite an experience at the Grand Canyon, but as I reached the top I saw large storm clouds rolling in and being as exhausted as I was I passed. Need to have a reason to come back anyway, right?
Once I got to the car, after the never ending (1.5 mi) walk along the rim, food was the next thing on the agenda. I folded and went for fat..I mean fast food. I needed a quick pick me up for the hour or so drive I had back to the hotel. I did not want to drift off the road so I even opted for a large soda, needed the sugar buzz. I made it back the hotel safely, thought about writing this blog post... didn't, and fell asleep. I had a lot of miles to cover Sunday so having an early night was probably for the best.
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